Pieces of Fine China

The night before I left for Beijing, I drank white wine and watched the Korean sun sink into the Yellow Sea. At that sizzling moment, I raised my glass to summer, and to vacations, and to this: part two of a summer vacation for one -- me. I was excited and ready and determined to take this trip as a woman without reservations and one with no agenda. The stories that follow are "pieces of fine China" that I will keep in my cabinet of memories forever.

Pieces of Fine China - Beijing Welcome

By the time my plane touched down in old Peking, I had devoured the entire Lonely Planet Beijing City Guide, and was almost more aggressive than the Chinese in getting out of the airport and on my way to 'downtown'. A rather lengthy bus ride, a short stint on the subway and a well-directed walk later, I found myself peering into the dusty doorway of Qianmen Hostel. It was my first look at, and stay in a 'youth hostel', once a 3-story courtyard residence dating back to 1850. I'd decided to stay there on the advice of a friend who knew the Xuanwu neighborhood to be an ideal location for the eager adventurer in me.

It was still early, before noon, so I set out to make up for the morning lost to transportation. Outside, the hazy heat hung in every hutong (narrow alleyway) and smothered the city like a giant white net cast over this world capital. As I walked through the steaming smog soup, I had to squint and scowl to sightsee my way down Dazhalan Pedestrian street, a hutong only a few steps from the front door of my hostel, and a flavorful street that quickly became my favorite. This heady hodgepodge of tea shops, silk stores, massage studios, tourist outlets and interesting architecture served as the daily access and return route for all of my urban adventures. With a left turn at the west end of Dazhalan, I was suddenly strolling a modern-looking boulevard bustling with brand name stores and beautiful Chinese restaurants with their radiant red and glittering gold porticos. I stumbled on street car tracks under foot as I feasted my eyes on the fine facades and gaudy gates overhead. My head panned back and forth across the wide avenue as I wound my way ahead to where my gaze grew into a gaping gawk as the stern structures surrounding Tiananmen Square appeared 'out of thick air'.

With no particular plan, I was open to wandering, to meandering, to being just one of the thousands of people to plod through this cement desert known as the world's largest public square. It was aptly named, as my insignificant speck of humanity was distinctly felt as I entered this this almost 4800 square feet domain designed to hold more than a million people. Despite being considered a public space, the square was encircled by fences that funneled the crowds through security check points and bag searches, and obsessively monitored by closed-circuit cameras and stringent, serious-faced guards. Clearly not a relaxing place, I kept my pace with my eyes peeled and proceeded with my promenade around this political pavement.



With my plan of "no agenda" well underway, my first chance to forge into new frontiers "without reservations" presented itself in the form of a very friendly, excellent-English speaking, Chinese couple. I was approached by this cheerful duo who seemed to think I could give them directions. I was by no means startled or surprised by this notion. Actually, I was rather amused, as this very scene has happened to me countless times all over the world, many of which resulted in rewarding meetings for both parties. Only this time, I apologized and told them regretfully that I had only just arrived in Beijing this morning. They were not the least bit dissuaded. In fact, this travel-talking twosome seemed perfectly content to just continue to accompany me around the asphalt attraction, and within minutes, our encounter had accelerated into an excited exchange of itinerary ideas, other areas to explore, and appropriate adventures for me to seek out -- the first being a Chinese tea ceremony.
As a huge tea aficionado, I was absolutely delighted by this suggestion, especially when they offered to escort me and explain and translate the information that would be imparted. After lingering through learning the proper way to hold and behold the fine china (tea cups) , smelling and sampling leaves of everything from herbal to oolong (teas) and lapping up the luscious local life, I realized I had blown my entire daily travel budget on this one exotic experience. Oh well, what better way to integrate than to celebrate with an authentic occASIAN. Besides, I told myself, I'd make up for it by eating street food and haggling for souvenirs. Welcome to Beijing, I thought happily, as I stepped out of the tiny tea house and into the rest of my summer vacation "without reservations".

Fine Pieces of China - Great Wall

It was 6 a.m., straight up, and I was on my way to the Jinshanling section of the Great Wall of China. For weeks I'd looked forward to visiting the Great Wall, the most iconic monument in all the land. I'd planned to conquer this wonder of the world at the earliest possible time in my trip, so as to be strong and ready for the 10k hike along this awe-inspiring symbol of Chinese history. That opportunity arrived on day 2 of my excursion. A great day for the Great Wall, I thought as the fast-moving, full morning sun glared through the bus windows. Appealing and authentic as the alleyways and attractions of Beijing were, I longed for a clean and fresh scene full of natural beauty at which to marvel. A day trip into the mountains of Luanping county some 110km from the city center was definitely in order. There was no doubt in my mind that surrounded by nature's veracity and the grandeur of the Great Wall, my second day would be a first rate experience.

The tour bus made a couple of stops at other local hostels to pick up fellow tourists. At the third and longest stop, I was staring out the window trying to digest the greasy bag of breakfast they had thrown at me earlier when I was joined by another "woman waller" traveling solo. I held up the paper cup of morning caffeine they had offered (Coke) and asked her if she had already had breakfast. She smiled. "Yes. I knew better." she said, nodding in the direction of my crumpled McDonald's bag tucked in the seat pocket in front of us. Her voice, in just 4 words, conveyed a confident, savvy attitude. Her accent had a lively lilt and was resonant with British brilliance. Her name was Penny and she was in Beijing by herself for a brief holiday after conducting a bit of business in the Shanghai area. Penny was an interesting woman with inspiring stories and so we rode along sharing our adventures in travel and our 'wanderlust in waiting', until the bus had finally reached today's desired destination.

I was silent on the ascent to the watchtower where the hike would begin. I wanted to feel the awe rising inside me and absorb the aura that was enveloping me. Slowly twirling 360 degrees, I took moving, mental snapshots of the magnificence and magnitude that could never be captured with a camera, and then proceeded up the path to step foot upon the Great Wall where I was 'on top of the world' in every way. Far less touristy than other sections of the Great Wall close to Beijing, the Jinshanling stretch of wall wound along the ridge of the mountain range like a tame, yet thrilling roller coaster route in disrepair. The trail was steep and several sections of the stone corridor were crumbled and collapsed making traversing it more trying. Parts of the path had dissolved into rubble and many areas of the edifice were overgrown with grass and plants. The periodic watchtowers were in various states of deterioration with some having been stripped of their bricks and their steps in ruins. However, undulating through this stunning terrain with its spectacular scenery under the summer sun made for an exhilarating and exquisite experience. It was truly a "wonder-full" day!

At home away from home

Recently, some of my correspondence and conversations with far-away loved ones included questions about stages of culture shock, homesickness and longings. At first, I was surprised by the inquiries because these issues had never crossed my mind, and so I did not actually respond. I felt certain that my letters and blog and other means of communication were open expressions of my attitudes and ideas. However, the more I thought about the direct questions the more I realized that I wanted to give direct answers. So, the following is a simple statement of where I stand on these topics at this juncture of my journey.

Have I experienced any culture shock?
Yes, two out of the 4 or 5 stages. You might say that I have moved from the Honeymoon stage, which states, "like any new experience, there's a feeling of euphoria when you first arrive to a new country and you're in awe of the differences you see and experience. You feel excited, stimulated, enriched. During this stage, you still feel close to everything familiar back home" directly into the Independence stage, which is described as follows: "You embrace the new culture and see everything in a new, yet realistic light. You feel comfortable, confident, able to make decisions based on your own preferences. You appreciate both the differences and similarities of your new culture. You start to feel at home."
The other interim stages of cultural distress or rejection have never occurred to me. This extraordinary experience is something I have wanted for a long time. I am filled with appreciation for the opportunity, and intend to make the most of it. I am only "shocked" at how incredibly fortunate I am to have landed in such a fine and fitting environment for me.

Am I homesick?
No, I am "home-healthy" in that I can feel 'at home' here because I am safe and comfortable and know that I am loved no matter what my physical address is.

Is there anything I miss?
Of course! At the top of the list are family and friends, which can never be replaced by other people in the world! So, I try to maintain my sense of loyalty and connection and share my life with those who allow me to be a part of theirs (just as I did when I lived in the USA).
As for activities or events that I miss, they are simple things for which I have either found or will have to find a suitable substitute. In either case, I shall always cherish the memories of them, for they almost all involve the loved ones of my life. These things that I cannot do here are things like wrapping up in warm towel straight out of the dryer, running or cruising around the Cove, wining and dining and socializing at a restaurant bar, going thrift store shopping, doing crafts, completing the NY Times Sunday crossword puzzle or making home improvements.
Material objects that are missing from my life here are an entirely different matter since they can be easily obtained or replaced. Therefore, I don't really miss anything in particular. I have been the grateful recipient of many care packages that included such items as my specific brand of hair color, my favorite healthy cereal, certain cooking spices, American chewing gum, American formatted CDs, my favorite articles of clothing, and some truly wonderful gifts. Many heartfelt thanks to all of you who have sent your love along in these boxes! I love you and I miss you.

Japan Jaunt

My heart was heavy when I boarded the plane to Kansai International Airport. Personal matters prevailed during this first venture outside of Korea, but thankfully my actual baggage was light, the weather was bright and the length of my stay was just right. I spent 4 days in mid-July exploring the southwest region of Japan -- one day and one night each in Osaka, Nara, Kyoto and the Arima resort area.
Immediately upon arriving at the airport, I stiffened my upper lip, strapped on my backpack and shifted into globetrotter mode. With a stop at the tourist information bureau and the exchange of my voucher for a Japan Rail Pass, I hit the streets of Osaka in search of my hotel. Trying to find a specific address in Japan is much like it is in Korea -- nearly impossible! However, even with very few street signs and absolutely no building or house numbers, I managed to locate and check off the first "must do" on my list: stay in a capsule hotel. Just slightly bigger than the locker they issued to me, this tiny room was big on being cool and convenient, and was the perfect fit for one little person to get a little shut-eye.

After a quick bath and a brief respite, I headed for Kyoto to spend a few hours with a friend from college and check off the second "must do" in Japan: the Gion Festival. I boarded the "ladies only" car of the express train, which was busting at the seams with women making their way home from work and elsewhere. I wondered why there was such a public segregation of the sexes, but quickly shrugged it off as I was sucked into a car packed so full of females there was no need to hang onto any pole, rail or strap in order to stay standing. Butts, bags and bodies were the support system on this train. I later learned that this unavoidable contact and mandatory tight squeeze is exactly why they have several cars reserved for "ladies only".

When the train coughed me out into the immaculate and majestic Kyoto Station, the last night of the Gion Festival was well underway. Just outside the station, the main road was closed to automobiles, lined with food vendors and filled with nearly 250,000 festival goers, and nearly every one with a flash camera -- there was no doubt I was in Japan! My friends and I walked like wind-up toys for a few feet in order to get a glimpse of the ancient Japanese vehicle that would be featured in the parade tomorrow. I whipped out my Sony Cyber-shot, clicked off a few photos and we pushed ourselves into the street through a fortuitous opening in the crowd created by a child who had been picked up by his mother. I came, I saw and then I was Gion.



My second day I spent in the second largest metropolis in Japan -- Osaka. Only one long day is surely not enough to do it justice, but I managed to make up for my short coming by taking in the essence of Osaka: Omnipresent shopping, Osaka Castle, and Octopus balls. Oh boy! Oh well.

Next stop: Nara. My original plan was to spend a whole day in Nara, and check off another "must do" item on my list: Todai-ji Temple, but that went awry and I spent a mere 12 hours in Nara. Two hours at dusk desperately searching for my reserved ryokan (Japanese guesthouse), 2 hours devising a plan for tomorrow's destination - Kyoto, 2 hours on the guesthouse computer writing my heart out, 5 hours of fitful sleep and 1 hour at Todai-ji temple the next morning. Because of my short go there, I long to return. There is "nara thang" bad to say about Nara.


I was hoping that my brief visit to the temple would soothe my spirit and put me at peace for the upcoming day in Kyoto. On the train I tried to clear my mind and breathe in the beauty of the passing countryside. While it would be a long day with constant companionship, I was looking forward to experiencing a few more of my "must do" items -- things that I had planned just for me: Japanese tea ceremony, kimono rental, and sushi & sake. My friend and I headed straight for the Kimono shop where we each chose a garment and were dressed by several Japanese women (one for each of the 7 layers!) They swaddled and cinched, wrapped and wound, draped and tied until we were beautifully bound into perfect and precise flat lines with feet. As we shuffled out of the shop, I wondered how I would be able to sit for lunch or use the loo, both of which I needed to do soon. As the day wore on I became more adept at wearing this traditional attire and looked at it as a gorgeous way to sweat off a few pounds. In the 9 hours of wearing the Kimono, I consumed a 6 course sushi lunch, drank and made tea with a Japanese tea master, hiked up hills and toured the Kiyomizudera temple, walked the "love stones" line, strolled through shrines and gardens and sidewalk-shopped for souvenirs. Finally we returned to the Kimono shop where the same 7 women quickly freed us from the mummy-like fabrics and we headed for true refreshment -- sushi and sake! It was there, sitting in the restaurant across the table from my friends, sipping on sake and snacking on sushi that I had the first real sense of relaxation. I held fast to that feeling, said good night to my friends and set my sights on tomorrow, my last day in Japan and my first visit to a full-fledged, fancy onsen resort & spa. A much needed vacation from my vacation.


Ah, Arima Grand Hotel Onsen Resort! The last "must do" on my list. I couldn't get there fast enough, and so arrived way too early to get into my room. No problem. I would just plunk myself down at the pool, and dive into peace and tranquility. Up in the mountains, under the warm sun, with a cold beer in my hand, my personal matters began to melt, but my person (I) got totally burned -- sunburned that is. I didn't mind. It actually felt good and I have a long-lasting souvenir from Japan now -- tan lines:>). Once checked into my luxurious room, I took advantage of the essence of an onsen resort, the baths! There were 3 different baths on the ninth floor (a mud bath, a mineral bath and a green tea bath), and a very special bath exclusively for ladies to enjoy on the first floor -- a rose bath. Needing the pampering and pleasure, I first sampled all 3 on the ninth floor and then savored the special rose bath as a grand finale. Sinking into the water, my spirits were lifted and my senses awakened. I felt like I was finally on vacation, so I shut my mind down for a time and turned my attention to sensual matters and self-care. With the final hours in Japan approaching, I was clean and fresh and feeling like a new person. So, acting accordingly, I donned a dress and the only souvenir I bought for myself (a wig) and dined and wined in the hotel lobby bar. A perfect ending to the only decent day of my jaunt to Japan.