Journey to Jeolla Nam Do - Day 3

With no daylight savings time, morning comes quite early in Korea. For today, that served me well as I was able to keep my vow of baptism by green tea, which would hopefully keep me afloat through the final adventures of this fantastic journey. The clear night had been replaced by a foggy morning with threats of showers lingering in the clouds above. Thankfully, the heated floor of last night's lodging dried out my shoes and I still had one clean shirt to wear. I rearranged my backpack, hung my hat on my back and headed for the hills...the green tea hills again. Boseong is the green tea capital of Korea with several thousand acres of green tea fields that grow from the sea to the the mountain peaks. With only 14 of us fresh enough to participate, the bus delivered us to the Daehan Dawon hills before anyone else was even out of bed. We were told that picture taking is much better early in the morning, but you be the judge.

I literally had to be dragged away from this bountiful beauty, as the bus driver (and official shepherd) sent a fellow traveler to fetch the "little white lamb" (me) from the fields. There was no time to linger as the day's docket had 3 more dynamic destinations before we would make the trek back to Seoul. As I boarded the bus, there were deliberations already underway as to how to make the most of the day, but avoid the holiday traffic in order to return by a decent hour (as everyone had to work the next day). The group-at-hand opted to omit the visit to a nearby temple, insert an immediate hot breakfast and shorten the stays at the last 2 sights. We had a plan, now it was time for action. The hungry bunch bee-lined for a local restaurant serving typical Korean breakfasts of bibimbap (rice with vegetables and a raw egg on top) and various noodle soups, while the bus driver took the rest of the gang back to the hotel to clean up, get their gear together and goad the others to get going.
In the hour or so it took to reach Damyang, everyone was briefed on the new schedule and agreed that the earlier the arrival the better. Keeping that in mind we made a brief tour of the Juk Nok Won Bamboo forest and saved enough time for a leisurely stroll down the famous Meta Sequoia Tree Lined Road.

Wet, 'walked-out' and weary, most of us were looking forward to a peaceful and quiet ride home. Unfortunately, the late-sleepers gained control of the karaoke screen and found a way to show the movie Iron Man...at full volume! A handful of us were from various places south of Seoul, which meant that we would have to backtrack once we finally arrived. In view of this, we approached the tour director and asked if the bus could drop us off at a rest stop somewhere south of Seoul where we could get taxis to take us to the nearest train station. So, at the final rest stop, 6 of us bailed out of the bus and got our bearings as to where we were exactly -- only an hour from home for any one of us, albeit in different directions. As luck would have it, our location was on a toll road and taxis will not pick up there. Instead, we would have to hike across the highway to the nearest gas station and call for a pick up there. It looked easy enough -- the SK station was directly across from us and someone had spotted an "overpass" just a few meters down the road. So, our troupe trudged through the rain, all 12 eyes searching for the stairs or ramp that would lift us up and over the freeway now frenetic with holiday traffic. All to no avail. There was indeed a path over the road, but it would require scaling a slippery rock wall on this side and then crawling over a chain-link fence lined with green construction mesh on the other. Deflated, but determined, we did an 'about face' and discussed alternative ideas. As we walked along the shoulder of the road, I noticed the rain water pouring down a cement slide in the drainage ditch. So I piped up and pointed out the possibility of an "underpass". One of the traipsers hurdled the guard rail and descended into the tunnel. "Yes" echoed back through the pipe and the rest of us scurried to catch up with her. Once safely on the south-bound side of the toll road, we called for 2 taxis and tried our best Konglish on the service station attendant while we waited. Finally at the train station, 3 of us went north and 3 of us went south -- one more transfer and I would be homeward bound. As our six-pack parted company, I wondered what I would have done if I had been alone on this last adventure of my journey, and all I could think of was: it wouldn't have been nearly as much fun!

Journey to Jeolla Nam Do - Day 2

I awoke sometime after daybreak, but decided to snooze a bit longer in an effort to make up for the upright, seated sleep that I tried to get while on the bus the night before. With four of us padded down on the floor of a room about the size of a walk-in closet, the three shortest butted up against each other in a parallel fashion, and the tallest laying perpendicular at our feet, no one dared be the first to make a move...or a sound. So, I lay in stillness doing morning eye-calisthenics around this antiquated architecture called a chogajip. Traditionally, this hut-like house with its rice-thatched roof was built and occupied by commoners, and this morning proved no different. It was only appropriate since the start of our second day of the journey was here in the middle of Nagan Traditional Folk Village. As soon as someone else stirred, I followed suit, and peered out a window to catch a glimpse of this village (dating back to the 1800's) as it came to life with town 'folk' going about their morning chores. For me, a quick, cold shower outside, a change of soggy clothes and a dixie cup of tepid tea, and I was off to join in the morning rituals of the village. There was a light mist coming down that soon turned into steady rain. Dancing to dodge raindrops and the puddles that were now forming in the dirt roads, I hip-hopped into a small shop where a family was minding the store while eating their breakfast of hot steaming noodles. Immediately, I spotted the perfect umbrella -- a conical hat with chin strap and a brim wider than my shoulders! It must be the traditional Korean farmer's hat, I thought. It was the perfect solution at the perfect price, so I donned my new rain gear and took off to turn up more traditional treasures. In the short time I had to spend there, I found treasures not only in the shops, but also in the people, the scenery, the culture and the incredible wonders of this way of life.

Back on the bus the windows were fogged over and the rain pelted the glass creating an abstract painting of whatever the landscape was outside. There were swirls of brown, gray and green and blurs of white and pale blue, and an occasional stained glass effect whenever we passed the random town. When we finally came to a stop somewhere high in the hills, a rich and brilliant shade of green was all I could see for miles. The endless rows of green tea bushes looked like a giant blanket of plush, wide-wail corduroy had been draped down the mountainside. As a huge tea aficionado, this was the highlight of the trip for me -- I would soon be in those hills, hand-picking green tea leaves, drying, roasting and rolling the leaves to my heart's content, and preparing my own batch of organic green tea to take with me to enjoy at my leisure. After the hands-on processing activity, I would then learn about, and participate in, a Korean tea ceremony. To say that I was in my element is an understatement! In fact, at this point, I was certain that Heaven is not white and waiting for me, it is green and lush and I have already arrived -- I have passed through the pearly gates into the Organic Gold Tea Estate! So, here in my Heaven on Earth, I steeped myself in learning the practice and honoring the rituals involved in the making of this divine drink. I felt the whole experience to be much like the tea I helped to create -- rich, exotic, golden, refreshing, and oh so easy to drink in.

Having spent the "better part" of the day at the green tea estate soaking up knowledge and experience and being drenched in tradition and history, not to mention the pouring rain and ankle-deep mud, we made a brief stop at the Gangjin Celadon Museum. Celadon is a type of pottery that is light green (celery colored) and is famous for the Goryeo Dynasty and is easily recognized in museum and shops around the world. However, this experience was not just another sight-seeing mission, but yet another hands-on activity in which I was allowed to carve my own design into the side of an unfired cup that will be processed to completion and shipped to me in a few weeks. I don't claim to have any artistic ability, but after the heavenly experience earlier, it was as if the angels of art were released through my fingers. The black clay was cool and soft in my left hand, and the carving tool seemed to take on a life of its own as it penetrated and pared out a perfect sideways-cascading plum tree branch with the words, "Land of the Morning Calm" resting under its delicate arm. Okay...I know... the proof is in the pottery. For now, I will just have to rely on the old adage, "good things come to those who wait" (and will keep you posted:>).
It was just after 7pm when we arrived at our accommodations for the night. The itinerary promised a complete opposite of the straw shack of the night before. Tonight we would bed down in a condo-hotel overlooking Yulpo Beach and be treated to a 50% discount at the exclusive jimjibang (pronounced: jim-jee-bong; it means a bathhouse/sauna/spa). As I have become a jimjibang junkie here in Korea, I opted out of the reserved dinner of spicy tofu stew, and immersed myself into the boiling brown bubbles of a green tea bath. For the next 45 minutes, I alternated my basking and bathing between the tubs of gurgling green tea and bubbling buoyant seawater. Unfortunately, our agenda was not in alignment with the operation hours of the hotel facilities, so a few minutes before 8pm, with my body afloat, but slowing sinking in the draining water of the sea tub, I vowed to get up early tomorrow and begin my day in my usual way -- drinking up, and relishing in, green tea!

That night, my 3 roommates and I spent a glorious evening sharing our stories of what brought us to Korea, what we hoped to get from the experience and how we were handling the whole matter. A diverse yet connected quad of independent women made for a lively and lovely gab fest that went on for more than 4 hours, although it seemed much shorter. But then time always telescopes when you put four women together who are eager to share what's on their minds. Through the course of conversation, I was especially enchanted by two of them. Both were strong and sure and sensitive. They were calm and considerate and projected positive energy. I found them so engaging, so inspiring and quite full of humor. When the four of us exchanged "good nights", it was almost midnight, but I lay awake with the indigo sky spilling into the room casting a blue net over our 4 stark white duvets lined up on the ondol floor. I remembered a quote from a Hallmark card that I received recently that said, "It's the friends we meet along life's path who help us appreciate the journey". Truer words were never written. With a sincere sense of satisfaction, I smiled, rolled over and went to sleep.

Journey to Jeolla Nam Do - Day 1

It was precisely 11:30pm when I emerged from the Seoul subway station to find the entourage of other travelers joining me on a journey to Jeolla nam Do, the farthest southwest province of the peninsula. I was excited to see such a melange of humanity huddled around the underground exit, all waiting and wondering when our "chariot" would arrive. Small groups of guys stood drinking bottles of Cass beer and laughing about the lateness of our ride. Various young girls made frequent trips the loo at the bottom of the stairs to ready themselves for the pending 5-hour trip, while the rest of us just perched on our packs and 'practiced what we teach' -- English conversation. It was just after 12:30am (an hour late) when our chariot, in the form of a giant burgundy bus equipped for karaoke complete with disco lights and reverberating microphone swerved up to the curb and opened its guts for our gear to be loaded.
Once underway, and after the 45 echoing introductions were over, the psychedelic aisle lights were extinguished, the karaoke screen went black and the microphone was muted so that we could all try to get some sleep before our first stop of the outing -- watching the sun rise from high atop the cliffs of Hyang-Il-Am, a small Buddhist temple that is set above a tiny inlet of the Yellow Sea.
Because of its isolated location and the early hour, when we arrived, the temple was pleasantly uncrowded and an air of upcoming celebration prevailed as the local villagers went about preparing for the parade of worshipers and weary wanderers on their way to say "Happy Birthday Buddha". To reach the actual temple required a long walk up many steps. At first I lagged behind poking around the tiny shops in hopes of finding a cup of tea and peering through alleys to get a glimpse of the landscape beyond. However, the already warm sun on my back reminded me what I came for, so I resorted to a bottle of water, quickened my pace, and found myself a serene spot from which to sit in front of the rising sun (appropriately enough, Hyang-il means standing toward the sun, and Am means the branch of a big temple). Off to a good start!



We had several hours to spend before the bus would depart to our next destination, so I spent some time wandering around the temple breathing in the spirit of this 'holy land on high'. Soon, it began to fill with 'followers' and foreigners so I packed up my rice cakes and camera and descended into town. At the end of the main road was a small point overlooking the water with just enough grass to unfurl my sleeping bag and be lulled to sleep by the monastic chanting that rang out over the hills above. I awoke with just enough time to brush my teeth and change my clothes, buy another bottle of water and board the bus bound for the next activity -- a boat tour of Yeosu Harbor.
On board the ferry filled with fellow vacationers, I stood outside on the upper, starboard-side deck with my head thrown back in the breeze and my nostrils flared with the salt air, remembering what a joy and luxury boating or sailing can be. As the massive craft set out of the harbor area, floating by rocky shores dotted with fishermen and waving children, and coves covered in crab traps, I stood silent and deaf to everything but the gentle waves lapping at the bottom of the boat. As soon as the inhabited shoreline had vanished from view, I fixed my eyes on the stunning scenery that seemed to surround the ship, and sank into a tranquil trance for what seemed like hours. As the boat was coming about, I was coming to...to the sounds of the on-board entertainer shrieking Korean songs into a microphone while he and his accomplice stalked the decks looking for passengers to patronize. I didn't fear being called on, I feared he couldn't be called off. At that moment I wondered how to say "man overboard" in Korean.



After disembarking, we were free to enjoy the harbor area, explore a nearby island or hit the beach for some (more) sun. We all scattered in different directions with a few of my new friends and I heading to the island of Odongdo. On this festive day, the island park was packed with people hiking, having picnics and hanging out around a huge musical fountain. Our brief interlude was spent sitting in the shade, sharing stories of our "stay" here so far and looking forward to the beauty that was yet to behold.
The road to Soon Cheon Mon Ecological Park rises from the sea and zigzags up and down long steep mountainsides terraced with small farms and rows of greenhouses. For the next hour or so I watched the colorful shacks radiate their hues of coral, turquoise and golden yellow in the now slanting sunlight until finally we arrived with an hour to spare before the dimming of the day and our last scheduled activity and opportunity to relish the rich landscape before us -- sunset on Buddha's birthday. Somewhere in the wooded hills behind the park was a trail that led to an observatory. Throngs of people marched in a row toward the bushy bump on the horizon looking like a trail of ants headed for a chunk of bread. As for me, I found a deserted dirt road raised over a barren rice field at the front edge of the eco-area and parked myself in a position poised and ready for picture taking. The evening sky was striated with thick clouds, so it was imperative to take many shots to capture this incredible closing ceremony of a truly "full" day. From sun up to sun down, I felt exhilarated and refreshed, and aware and embracing of a world and a self I never knew existed. It was a birthday in many ways.

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Journey to Jeolla Nam Do - Introduction

For me, there is something so empowering and so inspiring to realize that no one else in the world knows exactly where I am. To awaken in a strange place is one of the most pleasant sensations in the world. You are surrounded by adventure. You have no idea of what is in store for you, but if you are wise and know the art of travel, you will let yourself go with the flow of the unknown and accept whatever comes in the spirit in which the universe may offer it. This was my perpetual state of being last weekend, a 3-day Korean national holiday honoring Buddha's birthday. Usually not one to fancy group travel, I had no reservations about booking my first real excursion a la "package tour". Rather, I had great hopes that it would allow me the freedom and confidence to explore a new area, encounter other independent travelers and engage in interesting and exotic experiences. All I had to do was click and pay, and I was on my way!

Please enjoy the 3 separate blog entries that follow, which constitute the essence of my first excursion in South Korea!

Care-rea!

While I am rarely sick and am generally strong and fit, over the past few weeks I have had occasion to experience the health care system here in Korea, and I must say that the operative word is "care". I have seen an acupuncturist, a knee specialist/orthopedic surgeon, an internal medicine doctor and a dentist all without an appointment and all for well under $10 per visit! Prescriptions are almost free and come in individually wrapped doses which are filled while you wait (in under 5 minutes).
At school, it is a regular and frequent occurrence to go to my office and find bottles of Vitamin C drink and packets of Ginseng tea on my desk. Additionally, in the kitchen area of my office there is a cupboard full of herbal medicine drinks for the taking, and the refrigerator is filled with apples and oranges which arrive by the case and are washed, cut up and shared almost daily. Perhaps even more than the medical professionals, my Korean colleagues have been so gracious and generous in their demonstration of concern for my health. They have introduced me to the various services, driven me to the clinics, spoken for me in explanation of my symptoms and concerns to the doctors, covered my classes, bought over-the-counter remedies for me to try, offered me financial assistance with uninsured procedures, and even made personal house calls bringing food and drink to my apartment. In my opinion, they epitomize the word, "caretaker". While it is unfortunate to have suffered with what might be a torn meniscus in my left knee and a bout of the spring flu, I feel very well taken care of and quite grateful. As an American abroad, I support Health Care (Ko)reaform!