o Korea for a visit. I was so excited to have a guest to host and a companion to accompany on new adventures here in my new 'home away from home'. As a veteran of the Korean war, he was able to say that he had actually been to Korea before, but under such tragic conditions and such a long time ago, I felt certain he would experience a place unbeknownst to him ever before. The famous author, Henry Miller once said, "One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things". This was my sincerest hope for my first visitor from home.After taking a rather contorted tranportation route from the airport, we started with the sight where it all began,
Incheon Harbor and the Memorial Hall for the Incheon Landing Operation. This beautifully maintained war memorial was built in 1984 to honor those in the UN Forces who sacrificed their lives to preserve the democracy and freedom of South Korea that was being threatened by the invasion of communist forces. Immediately upon entering the main museum, we were greeted warmly and offered an English speaking gu
ide who did his best to explain many of the photographic panels, exhibits of uniforms and weaponry, and an illuminated diorama of the events of the Incheon Landing Operation. Upon learning that RoRo was a U.S. Marine who served during the war, our gracious guide honored him with many bows and thanks, which is typical of most of the Korean people who experienced or have an understanding of the war. Outside the air-conditioned museum, we climbed countless stairs for a close-up look at the Tower of Liberty Protection (Freedom Tower), and with an "about face", we were able to take in a panoramic view of the sea and the setting sun reflecting off the waters of the Seohaean coast.
Incheon Harbor and the Memorial Hall for the Incheon Landing Operation. This beautifully maintained war memorial was built in 1984 to honor those in the UN Forces who sacrificed their lives to preserve the democracy and freedom of South Korea that was being threatened by the invasion of communist forces. Immediately upon entering the main museum, we were greeted warmly and offered an English speaking gu
ide who did his best to explain many of the photographic panels, exhibits of uniforms and weaponry, and an illuminated diorama of the events of the Incheon Landing Operation. Upon learning that RoRo was a U.S. Marine who served during the war, our gracious guide honored him with many bows and thanks, which is typical of most of the Korean people who experienced or have an understanding of the war. Outside the air-conditioned museum, we climbed countless stairs for a close-up look at the Tower of Liberty Protection (Freedom Tower), and with an "about face", we were able to take in a panoramic view of the sea and the setting sun reflecting off the waters of the Seohaean coast.
Continuing with the military theme, we boarded a bus bound for as far North as any American is allowed to go -- the DMZ. On a damp and dreary morning, reading the clearly stated tour rules such as: No jeans, short pants, short skirts, sleeveless shirts, sandals or military-looks, we prepared ourselves accordingly, presented our required passports and proceeded with a very wet, whirlwind tour of the Demilitarized Zone. Seven kilometers from the demarcation line, we made our first stop at Imijingak Park. Built to console those from both sides who are unable to return to their hometowns, friends and families because of the division of Korea, this is where the Bridge of Freedom lies. It is said that 13,000 war captives crossed this bridge crying "hurrah for freedom", which gave it this apt name. Covering the railings of the small landing on which we stood, as well as the footbridge that crawled out to connect with the larger span were thousands of colorful ribbons with messages of hope for unification.
Our small shuttle van swirled farther north until we reached the 3rd Infilteration Tunnel site, which is actually inside 
the DMZ area. After a brief, albeit obligatory educational film about the war and location of the 4 tunnels, we were advised to unencumber ourselves and instructed to store our bags in the lockers provided before we would be allowed to descend into the tunnel. At the opening of this skinny, black pipeline that snakes its way 1.1 miles through bedrock buried some 73 meters (240 ft.) under Korean
soil were walls lined with bright yellow hard hats and a sign stating that they must be worn in the tunnel. As a natural response for RoRo, whose career was in construction, he dutifully obliged while I wondered if this was really necessary for a short, fit, woman adventurer like myself. Leaning backwards and holding the hand rail we began our descent down the approximately 15 degree ramp into the 6.6 ft. high and 6.6ft. wide darkness known as the Tunnel of Agression.
Designed for a surprise attack on Seoul from North Korea, we were told that this tunnel could easily accommodate 30,000 soldiers per hour along with light weaponry. It was supposedly discovered and revealed by a North Korean defector. Initially, and as usual, North Korea denied building it, but later claimed that it was part of a coal mine, and painted the walls black to help
confirm their statement. However, with a little scientific research, South Korea determined it to be geologically impossible to find coal in the granite walls through which the tunnel was dug. Also, with a bit of first hand experience, these two Americans determined this little trek was not for a claustrophobic, and hard hats were definitely necessary. After going half-way down, we laughed at the idea of stooping and squinting our way through another half-mile just to look at a wall (the 3rd blockade), so we did another "about face" and headed back up the ramp.
the DMZ area. After a brief, albeit obligatory educational film about the war and location of the 4 tunnels, we were advised to unencumber ourselves and instructed to store our bags in the lockers provided before we would be allowed to descend into the tunnel. At the opening of this skinny, black pipeline that snakes its way 1.1 miles through bedrock buried some 73 meters (240 ft.) under Korean
soil were walls lined with bright yellow hard hats and a sign stating that they must be worn in the tunnel. As a natural response for RoRo, whose career was in construction, he dutifully obliged while I wondered if this was really necessary for a short, fit, woman adventurer like myself. Leaning backwards and holding the hand rail we began our descent down the approximately 15 degree ramp into the 6.6 ft. high and 6.6ft. wide darkness known as the Tunnel of Agression.Designed for a surprise attack on Seoul from North Korea, we were told that this tunnel could easily accommodate 30,000 soldiers per hour along with light weaponry. It was supposedly discovered and revealed by a North Korean defector. Initially, and as usual, North Korea denied building it, but later claimed that it was part of a coal mine, and painted the walls black to help
confirm their statement. However, with a little scientific research, South Korea determined it to be geologically impossible to find coal in the granite walls through which the tunnel was dug. Also, with a bit of first hand experience, these two Americans determined this little trek was not for a claustrophobic, and hard hats were definitely necessary. After going half-way down, we laughed at the idea of stooping and squinting our way through another half-mile just to look at a wall (the 3rd blockade), so we did another "about face" and headed back up the ramp. Conveniently located adjacent to the tunnel entrance/exit was a small souvenir shop where I bought some chocolate-covered soybeans and a bottle of North Korean beer while RoRo rested and chatted up our pretty, young tour guide. Overhearing him tell her that he had indeed been to Korea before -- during the war -- I turned around to find another Korean bowing and giving thanks to this military man for his service. Only this time, instead of the mild mannered "don't mention it" attitude he gave the older gentleman at Memorial Hall, RoRo was all aglow with the color and pride of a performing peacock :>).
During the drive to the next tour destinations -- Dora Observatory and Dorasan Station -- the weather worsened and rendered any far away views or photo ops unfeasible for us. Despite the 
downpour, arriving at the observatory, everyone piled off the bus and headed straight for the line up of binocular view finders to search in vain for a glimpse of the North Korean city, Kijongdong. Also known as Propaganda Village, this town is actually a facade constructed of brightly colored concrete shells of buildings without any window glass or interior rooms, and a giant flag pole on which an enormous North Korean flag hangs. Building lights are turned off and on at set intervals and loud speakers regularly blare anti-western propaganda speeches and patriotic marching musi
c. This fake city was built in the 50s in an effort to convince South Koreans that the citizens of the north were living a life of luxury and prosperity, and encouraging defection from the south. We declined our turn at the outdoor observation binoculars and darted into the dry auditorium adjacent to the drenched deck. Inside was a detailed diorama of the DMZ area and a red horizontal line painted on the picture window to show where the far side of the 4-mile wide zone is.
downpour, arriving at the observatory, everyone piled off the bus and headed straight for the line up of binocular view finders to search in vain for a glimpse of the North Korean city, Kijongdong. Also known as Propaganda Village, this town is actually a facade constructed of brightly colored concrete shells of buildings without any window glass or interior rooms, and a giant flag pole on which an enormous North Korean flag hangs. Building lights are turned off and on at set intervals and loud speakers regularly blare anti-western propaganda speeches and patriotic marching musi
c. This fake city was built in the 50s in an effort to convince South Koreans that the citizens of the north were living a life of luxury and prosperity, and encouraging defection from the south. We declined our turn at the outdoor observation binoculars and darted into the dry auditorium adjacent to the drenched deck. Inside was a detailed diorama of the DMZ area and a red horizontal line painted on the picture window to show where the far side of the 4-mile wide zone is.The last stop on our tour is actually the last train stop in Sou
th Korea as well. Dorasan station is pretty much your average train station except that it is devoid of any passengers. All that can be seen in this sterile station are soldiers and tourists and symbols of hope for unification. Once a week a train leaves Dorasan station headed north to Pyongyang to take supplies there, but several times a week, incoming trains from Seoul arrive at Dorasan station with those supplies. We learned that if the North and South are ever unified, it would be possible to take the train from Seoul to anywhere in Europe via the Trans Siberian Railway. Talk about an intercontinental excursion!
th Korea as well. Dorasan station is pretty much your average train station except that it is devoid of any passengers. All that can be seen in this sterile station are soldiers and tourists and symbols of hope for unification. Once a week a train leaves Dorasan station headed north to Pyongyang to take supplies there, but several times a week, incoming trains from Seoul arrive at Dorasan station with those supplies. We learned that if the North and South are ever unified, it would be possible to take the train from Seoul to anywhere in Europe via the Trans Siberian Railway. Talk about an intercontinental excursion!Having flown halfway around the world and engaging in non-stop action on a two-day mission of military museums, monuments, maintaining a Marine mindset, and magical moments of glory and honor, RoRo was a real trooper to jettison his jetlag and journey forward from this "place" of his past into what I hope was a starting point for a new way of seeing this "destination".
Here's to many more visitors to your new home Kristina!!!
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